
However, that’s not what today’s newsletter about.

Linguistically too ─ fish and chips or fish suppers chippies, chip shops or chippers, these are all broadly regional variants that each of us insist is the correct version. You can define whole swathes of countries by whether they know what scraps or a potato scallop is. Then the third level is the fish substitutes: sausage in batters, saveloys, smokies, puddings and pies. Go down a level and you have condiments : the south doesn’t understand wetness and is content with mayo and ketchup, but in Wales and the north you have lineages of gravy and curry sauce, with vinegary brown sauce the condiment of choice in Scotland. Chips are differentiated by the type of cooking fat beef dripping traditionally, especially in the north, while the south, particularly London, prefers a blonder chip (perhaps the influence of Cypriots who stewarded the national dish and brought a fresher, Mediterranean frying style).


In the Inception of regional fish and chips, the first level is the fish and chips itself ─ fishing patterns and taste tends to carve Britain and Ireland into cod and haddock, with skate and rock perhaps more common in the south than the north.
